Chapter 4: 2013 - "Two Nights on the Glacier"

There was never really any doubt in my mind that I would go back to Denali in 2013. 

After reaching the pass in 2012, I felt like returning to Denali for a FOURTH YEAR would be crazy...  but it's Ok to be Crazy, remember?

And I liked the idea of camping ON the glacier, not just hiking to it...

Also, since 2013 is the 100th year anniversary of the first successful climb (it was just too much to pass up).

Every year I've tried to top the previous year. I thought long and hard about what would be a good goal to set for myself for 2013.    

Let's take a look at the hike summaries over the last three years (and then the 2013 Goal/Plan):

2010 Hike (Blue Line):  Out and back: 16miles, 3 nights


2011 Hike (Blue Line):  Out and back: 24miles, 4 nights

2012 Hike (Blue Line):  Out and back: ~40miles, 4 nights

2013 Plan:  Instead of turning around at the Pass, turn left.

(Approx. 47miles, planning for 5 nights)

The Plan above seemed just perfect. Very aggressive and unlikely to be completed, but just Crazy enough.  Over the summer of 2013, I decided that I would go alone. Another solo-hike in Denali!  Don't get me wrong, I loved hiking with Steve and Clint, and we remain friends to this day. 

 

But solo-hiking in Denali for the fourth year seemed just perfect.  Yes, I have heard it over and over again: "Never hike alone". 

It may surprise you to hear me say this, but I agree.  You'd be Crazy to hike Denali alone. As I've said before: Crazy is doing this hike in the first place. Stupid is attempting anything that I should have known I wasn’t capable of.  In Alaska: Crazy can be memorable but Stupid is usually deadly. Crazy is temporary. Stupid is forever.  It's OK to be Crazy, it's not OK to be Stupid.

So, Linda (my wife) agreed that I could go solo IF I had a Personal Locator Beacon or Sat Phone.  I decided on and bought an ACR SARLinkView 8225. This PLB is equipped with three buttons:  1) Emergency distress signal that goes straight to Alaska SAR, 2) Self-test button with GPS location, 3) Self-test without GPS. This beacon uses satellite and not cell phone technology.

Even though I [probably] will never have to initiate the emergency distress signal (hopefully never!), I still plan to use the beacon daily to send "I'm OK" text and email messages home.

 

Preparation over the summer:  During the three months before the start of the hike, I started a strict walking and jogging regiment. I diligently kept track of the number of miles that I logged over the summer.  By the time I left for Alaska, my log book exceeded 200 miles. Hard to believe, isn't it?  Well, I was in great shape and ready to accomplish my goal.
 

  

AUGUST  25, 2013

I arrived at the Backcountry office 15 minutes before they opened.  Another backpacker was already there.  I said "Hello" to him, and he said:

"Hey - you're that guy that has the blog..."

I was stunned.  Surely he wasn't talking about this blog!  I wanted to find out, so I replied "Maybe I am... what blog are you referring to?"

"The blog about McGonagall Pass"... ok, I still couldn't really believe it, but he had read THIS blog and he said he was trying to do the same hike.  He was from Shanghai originally, but more recently from near Philadelphia.  Eventually, I would give him a ride from the Backcountry office to the Murie Science Center - near the bus stop.

Next, I was able to talk to a Ranger in the Backcountry office - - who had just happened to have attempted to hike from McGonagall Pass DOWN the Muldrow, back to Eielson.

She hiked all the way to McGonagall Pass – and there climbed ON TO the glacier.  Then, she was able to hike down to Oastler Pass which is only about a mile east… within a couple of hours.  She also noted that there was no way to get OFF of the glacier at Oastler Pass without technical climbing gear.  Apparently the glacier is just too tall at that location without a way to get OFF or ON it. Then, she said she kept going eastward (toward Eielson) knowing that in another mile was another Pass (an unnamed Pass) that she might be able to exit at (if needed).  She said she thought it might take another hour to get there, but it actually took her over FIVE hours to travel ONE mile on the glacier.  “The glacier is simply too RUMPLED at that location” (I liked that word: Rumpled).  She finally gave up and had to hike all the way back up to McGonagall Pass – and then returned via Wonder Lake.

So… I was seriously disappointed, but I was certain that I would not even try the full return via Eielson.  I felt I made the right decision, but of course did not let the disappointment ruin my trip!!!

Instead of hiking down the Muldrow Glacier back to Eielson… I decided to spend a day or two exploring the glacier and maybe touching the base of Mt Brooks!  I thought that would be a huge accomplishment in itself!  Anyway, I made it to McGonagall Pass in two full days (one day was the most spectacular weather I have ever seen!)…  

 

Then for the next TWO nights, I camped ON the GLACIER!!!  Whew!!!  I was awakened in the middle of the night - - and noticed that something seemed to be weighing down my tent… I touched the roof of my one-person tent (SMALL!), and what felt like several inches of SNOW fell off!!!

While I finish the 2013 write-up, here are a few sneak-peak pictures: